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I'm happy to be making the switch.

Thank you, it was a fun project to undertake. I'm planning a second iteration at some point and cannot wait for that video series.

I'm very excited for it.

I haven't had the opportunity to play with a Link, although I know many people run them successfully in drift cars. I'm still learning about the R5 but I like what I've read thus far. Hopefully that translates in the realm of practicality.

Haltech's NSP software seems much more user friendly and intuitive. ProEFI has powered the car for the entire time it's been running and through the success I've had with it thus far, so I can't speak ill of it. However, the R5 gets me the few features I was lacking and will be a more seamless integration with the new dash. It seems like a win/win.

I used to run proefi for a few years. Was decent , but flashing and merging files gets old, dated software, poor closed loop o2 control ect... Switched to a fuletech for a few months and that wasn't for me ,pulse width barf, so went to an elite 2500. Liked that so much I just switched to a nexus r3. The nsp software is awesome. Currently swapping 2 more cars to nexus ecus and taking out the holley stuff, so will have all 3 on haltech nexus stuff. The haltech key pad and ic7 screen integration is seamless.

I've been impressed with Haltech thus far. There are a large number of options out there, however, which is nice when trying to find something that checks the boxes for your project.

I certainly didn't forget Haltech. I even made the question marks in the thumbnail photo Haltech yellow/orange as an Easter egg.

That's what I like to hear. I'm looking forward to seeing what this system can do.

Are you referring to the thickness of the head flange?

@@AlexLindner yes

It's 0.625", or nearly 16mm.

@@AlexLindner thankyou very much!

Thank you for your kind words and condolences. I've put everything I had into this build and am proud of the end result. It'll be very special to take it for its first drive.

That's what I grew up listening to. A Tribe Called Quest and De La Soul were on repeat. While I can't use their music in long form videos due to royalties, I found a few gems through my royalty free music service that I had to use.

While it was happenstance that it ended up like that, I agree that it takes a nice, organic path around the filler neck. I'm elated with the end result of this project and desperately want to take it on its maiden voyage.

Thank you for coming along for the journey. I think he would be and I've tried to make this my nicest build to date. It'll be a magical experience to take the first drive in this car again.

Absolutely, this car deserves the best I'm capable of doing. There will certainly be driving videos upcoming, but the car needs to go away for wiring first. We'll get there in time.

They're cool old cars and I have many good memories from growing up in the Celica Supra community.

Thank you very much. They're very cool cars - it doesn't get much more '80s than them. I see the Toyota bug has bitten your family as well.

Braking systems are one of my least favorite portions of a project. This was my first time building a full hard line setup for hydraulic systems and I learned quite a bit. I think I can do it more effectively next time with what I've learned here.

Thank you, Lex. It's really coming together nicely. I'm elated seeing it come back to life.

You are doing awesome work. It’s a lot of fun seeing the progress

My friend Russ at Accelerated Performance will wire the car. He wired my MKIV Supra as well complete with a milspec bulkhead, Deutsch connectors, autosport connectors, DR25 heat shrink, etc. He does a fine job and we'll do something similar with the MKII keeping as many OE functions as possible since this car is a street cruiser rather than a race car.

I don't fit in the car too badly, at least not to the point of discomfort. It's a strange perspective seeing me upside down in the seat working under the dash.

I've burnt myself in many different ways doing this type of work. The nice thing is when you get yourself good like the one in this video, it only hurts for a few minutes until the nerves fade away. My hands are a canvas of scars at this point.

What I learned through this project is noise reduction happens through the volume of space for packing material and the amount of packing material used. The more mufflers/packing material used, the quieter the exhaust will be. These are not chambered mufflers or anything crazy, just through-flow pieces with simple perforated tubes and a ton of fiberglass in them. It isn't whisper quiet, but it's the quietest big turbo Supra I've heard. Best of luck with your project. You'll be elated when you finally get to hear it with its new exhaust.

Indeed it was. I did a root pass with stainless filler and a cap with silicon bronze to smooth it out/seal up any pinholes I may not have seen.

It doesn't feel like that much time has elapsed until I really think about it. I still feel like a kid messing around in the shop and hope that never changes. Thank you for coming along on the journey with me.

Not that I'm aware of. Which portion are you referring to?

I'm ecstatic with how it's coming together. The turbo is a very nice piece that I'm excited to share in an upcoming episode.

Silicon bronze is a beautiful thing.

Thank you, and thank you for coming along on the journey with me for all of these years.

It takes time and repetition to develop the skill set. I've been doing this for 12-13 years and still learn new things/refine my process every time I pick up the torch. Fall in love with the process and let it consume you - TIG welding and fabrication are enjoyable endeavors for many, many years.

The block casting has "5M" protruding from its side.

@@AlexLindner from what wiki says it's actually an increased capacity 5m, they were 2.8l i believe if i remember correctly, after Toyota replace the internals and used dohc it amounted to 3l, but it's technically a larger 5m, they were in the ms132 crown something along those lines, a bit rusted in my upstairs 🥴 you should look for the engine number stamped/engraved on the engine block rather than the mold they used case the block

@@AlexLindner example Nissan used one mold for both sr20 and sr18 only difference was smaller sleeves and smaller Pistons

⁠@@DriftCentralI apologize for my short reply earlier - I was in the middle of a welding job and should have waited to respond. My memory is a bit foggy as it's been ages since I researched MKII Supras deeply. However, from what I can recall, the 5M and 6M are close relatives. The 6M is a JDM 3.0L, as you said, and I cannot recall if there are differences in the cylinder head or not. 6M swaps were fairly common, as were 7M swaps. From what I recall about the engine in this car, it came from a USDM MKII Supra which would make it a 2.8L 5M. My dad commissioned this engine before he passed and I was hands off with that process as I was balls deep in my MKIV project at that time. However, I'm nearly positive that this is a 5M.

Thank you, and thank you for your continued support over all of these years. I love that flaring tool, it's been one of the best tool purchases I've made. I highly recommend it.

Thank you, I'm trying to raise the level of both the production quality and what I'm building with every episode.

Thank you for your kind words and support.

Thank you. I go to the floor to use a punch for two reasons: a solid backing and a better vantage point to see exactly where the punch is placed. This is what works for me, although I'm sure other fabricators have their own methods as well.

Absolutely, thank you for making it possible with your submissions.

It's the most important element and the most difficult to achieve.

@@AlexLindner yes, sometimes I walk the fine line of peace and lighting my project on fire lol

I look forward to answering them.

p.s. You sound like heaps of fun to hang out with. Also a very similar sounding person to me. Funny.

My torch is a CS310, which is a water cooled 310A rated torch assembly. It's a 310A rated torch that's a similar footprint to a WP-9. I suspect the water cooling allows it to survive at high amperage as a smaller torch. If you like working on cars, shooting, and tinkering with various projects, I'm your huckleberry.

I noticed the audio wasn't great as I was editing it. I'll figure out a new microphone setup or location for the next installment.

I suppose it can be, although I've never really paid attention to being a competitor. My focus has been on producing the highest quality parts and work I can rather than the competitive business side. That isn't to say I'm unaware of fabricators/companies operating in the same space as me, but being a cut throat businessman isn't who I am as a person. This has probably stunted my growth, but it helps me stay relatively sane.

Thank you for your kind words. I'll typically take a stainless brush and scrub the joints to clean them before I weld, but have also welded them directly out of the fab room without issue. That isn't necessarily the best practice to use, although I haven't had noticeable issues provided the material I'm using is new and clean. In regards to filler rod, I generally use 3/32" 5356 filler for my aluminum work. I have 1/16" 5356 filler as well, although I'd guess at least 90% of the aluminum welding I do is with 3/32".